A RENOVATION THROUGH AYURVEDA
Beauty is a subject of socio-medical importance. People are using cosmetics not only for curing their skin problems but in routine to maintain the skin appearance and beauty. Labels on cosmetics and body care products are a tough code to crack. Certain cosmetics that we use in our day to day life are thought to contain carcinogens, reproductive toxins and other chemicals that may pose major health risks. Particularly, Lipsticks and kajals are rich in lead which can cause brain and eye damages. Similarly in seasonal disturbances we apply moisturizers in a regular basis with the thought that it is skin friendly, where, in actual moisturizers are rich in mineral oil and paraffins causing skin damage and skin diseases. Similarly , since from years we are addicted with talcum powders even baby powders , recent studies has shown that many branded talcum powders are rich in carcinogens inturn causing ovarian cancer like dreadful conditions. Deodorants and antiperspirants are a part of our life as an addiction, but just imagine the fact; phthalate containing deodorants are the main reason for endocrine disruptions, causing liver or kidney damage and even cancer. The list is never ending like nail polishes, bleach creams, hair colors, foundation creams all are linked with major lifestyle disorders including reproductive toxicities, infertility, neurotoxicity etc.
When we dress properly or do cosmetics or if someone is commenting about our looks, we are getting some positivity as well as confidence. But the question is why we have to sacrifice our physical health for getting mental happiness? As an organic era, it’s high time to leave these carcinogenic cosmetics and go to nature with the beauty of Ayurveda.
AYURVEDIC CONCEPT OF COSMETOLOGY
Cosmetic approach of Ayurveda is related to physical, mental and spiritual beauty as a combined unit project. Ayurvedic cosmetology explains Physical beauty as
• Beauty attained from birth
• Beauty gained through treatment procedures
Be it black or white complexion, God given beauty can’t be changed and it depends on the constitution (Prakruti) of a particular person. Dealing with Ayurvedic aspects of cosmetology we can enlist into 2 broad aspects.
1. Rasayana (Rejuvenative therapy)
2. Other external applications
Ayurveda explains rejuvenative therapies for improving longevity, complexion and for attaining physical as well as mental stability. Certain rasayanas have specified cosmetic indications also. For example, Chayavana prasya, amalaka Rasayana, narasimha ghrtha etc.
AYURVEDIC BEAUTY PARLOUR
A renewed thinking of Ayurveda – Ayurvedic beauty parlour. Ayurvedic books like Haramekhala, charucharya etc had described various cosmetological aspects that can be included under the currently available cosmetic products. So let us have a look on some.
1. DECORATIVE COSM ETICS
a) Primers
Certain formulations described in classics can produce the effect of primers when used continuously for 1 month. Seeds of Badara dried – powdered & added with honey and is well macerated to a paste when applied will removes the unwanted facial blackish spots making similar to the effect of primers. Another formulation, Vachadi choorna also plays a relevant role in this aspect.
b) Lipsticks
Lipsticks are used to add color and texture to lips and can be made naturally with beetroot juice and ghee in a fixed proportion. Various formulations have been mentioned in classics also. Artists performing ‘theyyam’& ‘kathakali’ (arts of Kerala) make their lips red by applying purified & powdered manashila along with coconut oil as paste. No toxicity has been reported till date. But usage of this should be strictly done under medical supervision. Many natural ways to prepare lipsticks and lipbalms are available now a days with beetroot, bee wax etc.
c) Kajal
Ayurveda had emphasized the importance of kajal and had explained various formulations that can be used as kajals. Extract the juice of bhrngaraja (Eclipta alba) and dip a cotton wick in it and after that light up diya with that wick and collect the extracted ashes by keeping a clean bowl above the diya, without disturbing the light. Collected ashes can be mixed with castor oil or desi ghee and stored in containers. It can be preserved even for years.
d) Concealer
Concealers are used to cover any skin imperfections like blemishes, undereye discolorations etc. Ayurvedic treatment procedures like Nasya (Nasal Inhalation) with shadbindu taila plays a very relevant role in removing undereye discolorations. Facial applications with paste made up of Sariba or nalpamara churna or eladi churna along with milk can be applied for removing blemishes.
e) Talcum Powders
In an Ayurvedic way, we can replace toxic effects of talcum powder with Lyophilized powder of tugakshiri added with Jasmine extract thereby providing glowing scented skin.
2. CARE COSMETICS
Skin care plays a very relevant role in maintaining the beauty and hence only Moisturizers became demanding in market. Apart from using chemical lodged moisturizers we can use Coconut oil and tender coconut water to moisten the skin. For maintaining the lipglow, lipglosses and lip balms can be prepared by mixing, powder of Yashtimadhu (Glycrrhyiza Glabra) along with madhu. In a better way for preservation, beewax, along with butter can be made which can be stored for 6 months. For getting facial glow, Acharyas had described various facial masks in different contexts on the basis of seasons. Rakta chandana ,manjishta ,lodhra, arjuna etc are the drugs used for preparing facial masks.
Cosmetology is a vast subject related to many subjects and objects, in present context it has been dealt in relation to personality and beauty as both are having equal importance. There is a great demand of Ayurveda in the field of Cosmetology due to reduced adverse effects. Proper research works and clinical studies in these particular yogas thereby validating these yogas will help our science Ayurveda to flourish in Ayurvedic cosmetology.